Why Is My Faucet Leaking? Common Causes and How to Fix Them
A dripping faucet is a common plumbing issue that many homeowners deal with. While a small drip may seem harmless, a constant leak can waste a significant amount of water over time and add unnecessary costs to your water bill. In most cases, the cause is relatively simple, such as a worn washer, damaged O-ring, corroded valve seat, faulty cartridge, loose components, or excessive water pressure.
This guide explains the different types of faucets, what commonly causes leaks, how to troubleshoot and repair each issue, and when it's better to call a professional for help.
Different Types of Faucets
Repair starts with knowing what kind of faucet is in front of you. Different designs leak for different reasons and come apart in different ways. Four types cover almost every faucet in a typical home.
Compression Faucets
The oldest design, usually two separate handles over a sink. Inside, a rubber washer presses against a valve seat when you close the faucet. Every turn wears the washer a little more, and a worn washer is what causes the drip. A washer kit and a few minutes are often all the repair takes.
Ball-Type Faucets
A single-handle kitchen design from the 1960s onward. A slotted metal or plastic ball sits inside the body and controls flow and temperature, sealed by spring-loaded rubber seals and O-rings. Leaks here usually come from worn seals, a loose adjusting ring, or a corroded ball.
Cartridge Faucets
The most common single-lever design today. Instead of a ball, a cartridge with a stem slides or rotates inside the body to mix hot and cold water. Older cartridges use rubber seals; most modern ones use ceramic discs. When the faucet drips from the spout, the cartridge is the first suspect.
Ceramic-Disc Faucets
A newer and very durable single-lever design. Two ceramic discs move against each other with almost no wear, which is why these faucets rarely leak. When they do, the usual cause is debris trapped between the discs, or a cracked disc from freezing or rough handling.
The Most Common Causes of a Leaky Faucet
Once you know the type, look for the cause. Across all designs, a handful of parts fail again and again.
Worn-Out Washers (Compression Faucets)
The washer is compressed against the valve seat on every use, and years of friction flatten, harden, or shred it. A compression faucet that drips from the spout almost always needs a new washer. Match the size and shape to your faucet, because the wrong washer will leak again within weeks.
Damaged O-Rings
O-rings are small rubber rings that seal the stem, spout base, and other moving joints. When one dries out, cracks, or slips out of place, water seeps past it. A leak around the handle or the base of the faucet, even when the faucet is off, points to an O-ring. Replacing O-rings is cheap; identifying the right size is the only tricky part.
Corroded Valve Seats
In compression faucets, the valve seat is the surface the washer presses against. Hard water and sediment corrode or pit it over time. A pitted seat chews through new washers quickly, which is why a faucet can keep dripping shortly after a washer replacement. The seat can be resurfaced with a seat-dressing tool or replaced, depending on the design.
Faulty Faucet Cartridges
In cartridge and ceramic-disc faucets, the cartridge controls shutoff. Grit from the water supply, a worn sealing surface, or a cracked ceramic disc lets water leak through even when the handle is closed. Cartridges are identified by brand and model, not by size alone: two cartridges can look alike and still not interchange. If you recently had plumbing work done, flush the lines first, because fresh debris is a common reason cartridges fail early.
Loose or Broken Parts
Sometimes nothing is worn, just loose. The adjusting ring, packing nut, or handle screw can work itself free over time, letting water escape around the handle or stem. Tightening these parts often stops the leak. The caution is to tighten with controlled force, because overtightening strips threads or cracks the body.
Broken Inlet and Outlet Seals
Seals inside the faucet body keep water flowing in the right direction. Sediment buildup and pressure spikes can make them fail, producing a leak that appears to come from inside the body. These repairs usually mean disassembling the faucet completely, and on many modern faucets the more practical answer is replacing the faucet.
High or Fluctuating Water Pressure
Household water pressure above about 80 psi strains every seal and washer in the system. High pressure also causes water hammer, which loosens fittings over time. If your faucets leak more often than they should, or several start leaking at once, check your pressure with a gauge. A pressure-reducing valve on the main supply line protects the whole house.
Diagnose the Leak Before You Take Anything Apart
Water travels, so the visible wet spot is not always the source. Dry the faucet and the countertop completely, then run the water and watch.
Leaking from the spout tip: the shutoff mechanism is not sealing. On a compression faucet, suspect the washer or seat. On a cartridge or ceramic-disc faucet, suspect the cartridge.
Leaking under or around the handle: suspect O-rings, the packing nut, or a cartridge that is loose in the body.
Leaking at the base where the faucet meets the sink: either the base gasket or O-ring has failed, or water is running down from a leak above. Check the handle first, because gravity makes upper leaks look like base leaks.
Leaking under the sink: check the supply connections and hoses first. But water can also run down the faucet shank or a pull-down hose, so dry everything and trace the leak to its true source before deciding what to replace.
How to Fix a Leaky Faucet at Home: A Step-by-Step Guide
The steps below follow the order every plumber uses. Work slowly, keep the parts in order, and photograph the assembly before you take it apart so reassembly is easy.
Step 1: Shut Off the Water
Close the shutoff valves under the sink, then open the faucet handle to release trapped pressure and drain the lines. If there are no shutoff valves under your sink, close the main water valve instead.
Step 2: Remove the Handle and Trim
Pry off the decorative cap, undo the handle screw, and lift the handle off. On some designs you will also remove a bonnet nut or retaining ring. A handle puller helps when the handle is stuck onto the stem.
Step 3: Inspect the Washer, O-Rings, Cartridge, or Seals
Look at what you find. A flattened or shredded washer, cracked O-rings, or a cartridge with debris around its base all confirm the diagnosis. Bring the old part to the hardware store so you match the replacement exactly.
Step 4: Clean or Dress the Valve Seat
For compression faucets, inspect the seat for corrosion or pitting. A seat-dressing tool smooths minor damage; badly corroded seats may need replacement. Hard-water scale inside the body can be soaked in white vinegar and scrubbed off.
Step 5: Replace the Worn Parts
Install the new washer, O-rings, seals, or cartridge. Seat everything squarely, and do not overtighten: most faucet parts seal by fit, not by brute force.
Step 6: Reassemble and Test
Put the faucet back together, open the shutoff valves slowly, and run both hot and cold water. Check the spout, the handle base, and the connections under the sink while the water runs, and again after shutoff.
How to Fix Different Types of Leaky Faucets
Compression Faucet Drip
Replace the washer and, if the seat is rough, dress or replace it. Rebuild kits with washers, springs, and O-rings are available for most two-handle faucets. This is the cheapest faucet repair there is.
Ball-Type Faucet Leak
Replace the cam washer, the seat and spring assemblies, and the inlet seals. Ball-type repair kits include all of these. A leak at the base or handle usually means the adjusting ring needs tightening or the O-rings are worn.
Cartridge Faucet Drip
Remove the retaining clip or nut, pull the cartridge straight out, and install an exact replacement. Flush the valve body of debris first. A cartridge that drips from the spout is rarely fixable by cleaning alone, so plan on a replacement cartridge.
Ceramic-Disc Faucet Leak
Remove the cartridge and inspect the discs for cracks and the inlet seals for debris. Often a thorough cleaning restores the seal. If the discs are cracked, replace the cartridge, since a cracked disc will not seal reliably.
Before You Install a New Faucet: 5 Things to Check
If repairing your faucet hasn't solved the problem, or you're simply ready for an upgrade, a little preparation can make the replacement much easier. Before removing the old faucet, take a few minutes to check the following.
Turn Off the Water Supply
Start by shutting off both the hot and cold water valves under the sink. Once they're closed, turn on the faucet briefly to release any water and pressure left in the lines. This helps prevent spills when you disconnect the old faucet.
Look for Other Leaks
Before assuming the faucet is the only problem, check the supply lines, connections, drain, and cabinet area for signs of moisture. Water stains, damp surfaces, or corrosion may point to a leak elsewhere that should be addressed before the new faucet goes in.
Check the Sink Configuration
Take a look at how many mounting holes your sink or countertop has and measure the spacing between them. Faucets are available in single hole, centerset, and widespread configurations, so the replacement needs to match your existing setup or include a deck plate that can cover unused holes.
Make Sure the New Faucet Fits
Check more than just the mounting holes. Make sure there's enough room for the faucet handle, spout, and any pull-down or pull-out hose to operate properly. If you're upgrading to a touchless or other powered model, check whether it requires batteries, an electrical connection, or additional hardware.
Have the Right Parts Ready
Older supply lines, seals, washers, O-rings, or mounting hardware may need to be replaced during installation. Before you start, check what comes with the new faucet and pick up anything else you may need. Knowing the brand and model of both the old and new faucet can also make finding compatible parts much easier.
A few quick checks before installation can save you from unexpected leaks, missing parts, or compatibility problems once the old faucet is already off.
When to Call a Professional Plumber
Several situations are not worth a DIY attempt: a leak that continues after you have replaced the obvious parts, water pressure problems that need a pressure-reducing valve on the main line, corroded or seized fittings that will not come apart cleanly, and any sign of a cracked faucet body. If the shutoff valves under your sink are old and do not close fully, have them serviced before you start any repair, because being unable to stop the water is the one thing that turns a small job into a flood.
Conclusion
A leaking faucet is a common household problem, but it's one that shouldn't be ignored. By identifying the cause of the leak, you can take the necessary steps to fix it and save water and money in the process.
Whether it's a simple washer replacement or a more complex pressure issue, Aquavit is here to help. Contact us today for all your plumbing needs!
FAQs
Can a leaky faucet raise my water bill?
Yes. A faucet dripping once per second wastes roughly 3,000 gallons a year, and the bill follows. Fixing even a slow drip pays for itself.
Why does my faucet drip only at night?
Night drips are usually the same worn washer or cartridge, just more noticeable in a quiet house. A more unusual cause is pressure creep from the supply line, which a check valve or pressure-reducer can solve.
Do I need to shut off the main water to fix a faucet?
No. Use the shutoff valves under the sink. Only if your faucet has no shutoff valves should you close the main valve.
How much does it cost to fix a leaky faucet?
DIY parts run from a few dollars for washers and O-rings to roughly 20-50 dollars for cartridges. Professional repair usually lands between 100 and 250 dollars depending on the faucet and your area.
How long should a quality faucet last?
With reasonable water quality, a well-built ceramic-disc or cartridge faucet should last 15 to 20 years of normal household use. Hard water and heavy use shorten that.
A Pull-Down Kitchen Faucet Built to Stay Drip-Free
Aquavit Arcus Pull-Down Kitchen Faucet (KF13103) | View product page | Solid SUS304 stainless steel, magnetic pull-down head, European components.
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